Tuesday, September 25, 2007

My Buddha Is Bigger Than Yours


I stayed my first two nights on Khoa San Road, where Leonardo DiCaprio stayed in The Beach. Think dreadlocks, tribal tattoos and dirty sandals.

The first morning, on my way to the Grand Palace, a man stopped me and waved his hand before me, as if to ward off demons or cleanse my aura. The only demon I knew occupying my space was left from the Thai whiskey I drank the night before. Pronounced "whi-kay," thai whiskey is made from sugar cane and is actually a rum. Unfortunately, the man's efforts didn't work.

The Grand Palace is quite a site. A sort of spiritual Disneyland bathed in gold and jewels. The day was hot and the tiered rooftops looked magnificent against the deep blue sky. The main attraction is the Emerald Buddha, which is actually carved of Jasper and only a few centimeters high. He has been honored since the 15th century and the king himself changes Emerald Buddha's gold outfits three times a year.

Spirituality in Thailand plays a major role. If we live in a world of four dimensions, the fourth being time, Thais live in 5D. The fifth is the spirit world. Gods are thought to inhabit the same world as humans and certain areas are visited to pay respect to the deity who lives there and perhaps ask for a favor. An enormous amount of the day is consumed by prayer, burning incense, purchasing amulets of good luck, knocking a lucky wooden phallus on the door frame, leaving a spirit a gift such as fruit or flowers.

I visited the Amulet Market in Bangkok thinking it a novelty and upon leaving, I walked through other markets to realize all of Bangkok is an amulet market. I watched a monk stop at an ATM machine to grab some cash so he could purchase some lucky herbs.

After the palace, I visited Wat Pho, a temple home to Thailand's largest reclining Buddha. You cannot see all of him from any angle. His toe is bigger than my arm. Quite impressive. The day included hundreds of Buddhas, of all sizes, all given the same amount of respect as far as I could tell.

I tried to take a tuk tuk to Chinatown but my super-friendly driver kept driving me to his buddy's suit shops. Frustrated, I would up paying him to take me back where I started.

Then I got beat up by a small Thai woman.

Actually, I paid her to do it. Thai massage trumps all. They beat you up, fold you passively into various yoga poses and knock all the bad spirits to the curb. An hour costs eight USD at the massage school. I can't wait to go back.

The massage was so good that I fell asleep and was late to dinner with my new German friend Thomas. A Irish folk artist from Hamburg, all Tom wants to do is dive. He's been travelling for ten months. We ate grilled red snapper for three dollars and drank fresh squeezed juice. He told me I am the strangest girl he'd met on his entire vacation. I was pleased.


I went to bed early last night to rest up for my flight this morning to Koh Samui. Tonight is the Full Moon Party. I plan to spend the afternoon asleep on the beach in preparation.

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