Back in KL. It's nice to be able to pronounce the street names without hesitation. The guesthouse clerk greeted me with, "Welcome back, Miss Katherine." Oh, I should tell you that they often call me Miss Davenport here, the concept of a middle name not completely understood. If I disappear off the face of the earth, you should look for me under this surname as well.Anyhoo, in my guesthouse, I was telling the new arrivals on where to go out this weekend, what time to arrive for the Petronas tour and what kinds of Malay food to try. What should you try in Malaysia? Pie Tie, little crusty pastries shaped like a top hat, into which you stuff shreaded veggies and pour rich sauces. Also, try the laksa, a spicy soup with a coconut milk base in which you'll find shrimp and noodles and other treats.
I got up early and waited in line to see the Petronas towers with other tourists, in turbans and short-shorts, in Hawaiian shorts and saris. This is what I love: the intense mix of people gathered together in one city. Right now I'm writing about the tourists but this holds true for KL's residents as well.
Notes on Race and Religion taken from the Back Seat of a Taxi
KL is not convient to walk around, though I did a bit. It's impossible to avoid hopping in a taxi every now and then so I asked the drivers about racial tension, which is a tangible but not uncomfortable entity here. The cab drivers told me there are there are three main groups. Disclaimer: I am going to write in large generalizations here, so beware. I really don't know what I'm talking about. The native Malay Muslims (whom have a special name but I forgot it) are considered a bit privileged. There are the Indians who practice Islam, Christianity and Hinduism. Then there are the Chinese, whom one driver assured me, up until recently, held the best jobs in the economy because they are hard-working and encourage their kids to do well in school. He also mentioned they drive a hard bargain as shop-keepers. (Russell Peters, anyone?)
I read that this cultural combination is due to Malaysia's history as being the top exporter of spices for most of the second millinium. The trade route went from Malaka, a port town just north of KL, to India, to Italy and eventually to Portugal. The Chinese gained control of this port by offering military protection. Portugal wanted a way around this taxing trade route and sailed to Malaka, fought, won, gained control of the port and built a fort. The Dutch came in and destroyed the Portuguese fort. Indian Muslims bought Islam to Malaysia, the dominating religion that persists today. Eventually, the British gained control and the Malays resented and rejected the Christianity that was forced upon them. I believe one British entrepreneur wound up taking an interest in Singapore which they turned into a bustling port city.
One driver told me that because the Malay Muslims were suffering large numbers of unemployment, the government set up some sort of a program in the 70s that sounded like affirmative action. This program is still effect today, though this Christian Indian driver felt that it was completely unnecessary because the Muslims hold all the government positions. Hmm.
The Cure for AIDS
I thought nothing of it when the man who picked me up from the airport my first night in KL that first night told me that a Malaysian doctor had found the cure for AIDS. I thought he must have read an article wrong. But what a scary misconception! Then, it happened again. The driver who drove me through the Malay market mentioned the same thing upon learning that I am a medical student and gave me articles to read that he kept laminated on his dashboard. The doctors name is Dr. Ananthan Krishnan. I couldn't read the story since it was written in Bahasa Malay but he gave me the run down.
You must understand numerology. According to your birthdate, you calculate a series of numbers that belong specifically to you. The driver said that the act of repeating these numbers in certain tones strengths strengthens your immune system. I told him, that though I've only studied Western medicine, I find this a frightening conviction to tell people that you have a cure for AIDS. I believe it will make them participate in more risky behavior, perceiving AIDS as less of a threat. "Yes, it's wonderful news!" he replied.
HAART therapy with protease inhibitors seems to be making progress--maybe we can even do some gene therapy work with CXCR5. But there is no cure for AIDS, not yet. I might visit a tarot card reader out of curiosity but I respect this retrovirus' power too much to rely on any cure that is purely spiritual and not strongly scientifically-based.
Another driver told me about this later and I stopped asking them. This is too scary for me to hear more about. Apparently, Dr. Krishnan is already well-respected in India and is invited to China to speak at several medical institutions there. In looking over his articles, I found advertisments in which he promotes his own line of OTC meds, treating everything from diabetes to depression.
The Tallest Twin Towers in the World or Great Heights
I eventually went on the Petronas tour. From afar, the towers are truly impressive, elegant. On the tour, they sit you in a movie theater and show you a 3D movie about Petronas' contributions to the community and devotion to keeping the environment clean while drilling for oil. I sort-of bought it. After taking the elevator to the skybridge, an Indonesian man, here in KL on a work visa, asked me to be in all his pictures. I smiled sweetly.
I mentioned to another tourist that you can see the towers from anywhere in the town. He replied, "Ya, they are very tall, no?" And I felt stupid about my remark. In fact, they were the tallest in the world until a few years ago. Now, Taipei holds that record. On the official Petronas tour, they do specify that they are still the tallest twin towers in the world. Oh, right.
Later that day, I went to the Menara KL, another sight-seeing tower here that is overshadowed by it's architectually superior rival Petronas. You can actually go up higher in the Menara towers so I took a bunch of pics. Tourists scream while sliding down a zip line at its base.
But later that evening, I had a drink at Luna, a posh roof-top bar with an infinity pool. From the cushy seats of Luna, you can view the Petronas Towers and Menara KL lit up at night--stunning really--and drink a Lychee martini at the same time. As far as high-altitude views go, Luna wins in my book. A couple sent over a second drink to me. What a nice thing to do for a girl traveling alone.
Credit Card Gasps for Breath
Upon exiting the Petronas tour, you wind up in a shopping mall. This mall give the Beverly Center a run for its money. It is southeast Rodeo Drive with a little Melrose in the mix. Everything from Gucci to Zara. From Mango to Marc Jacobs. Even a discount shoe store, a la DSW. I am drawn into stores by some force undiscovered by today's top physicists. I tried on a skirt at Kookai and told the sales woman I loved it but the price was a little too high for me. She offered a lower price. I told her I'll take it for 60%. She agreed. Wait a sec!!! Bargaining at Kookai Paris?! This is awesome. I buy the skirt and decide to try my luck at Prada. Bargaining is frowned upon at Prada. But it worked at Mango. I'm stoked. I walked out with three new pairs of Malay shoes to add to my wall of shoes (this is my art) in my Brooklyn apartment. I had to give myself blinders with my hands to exit this mall. And I'm usually a boutique kind-of girl.
HAART therapy with protease inhibitors seems to be making progress--maybe we can even do some gene therapy work with CXCR5. But there is no cure for AIDS, not yet. I might visit a tarot card reader out of curiosity but I respect this retrovirus' power too much to rely on any cure that is purely spiritual and not strongly scientifically-based.
Another driver told me about this later and I stopped asking them. This is too scary for me to hear more about. Apparently, Dr. Krishnan is already well-respected in India and is invited to China to speak at several medical institutions there. In looking over his articles, I found advertisments in which he promotes his own line of OTC meds, treating everything from diabetes to depression.
The Tallest Twin Towers in the World or Great Heights
I eventually went on the Petronas tour. From afar, the towers are truly impressive, elegant. On the tour, they sit you in a movie theater and show you a 3D movie about Petronas' contributions to the community and devotion to keeping the environment clean while drilling for oil. I sort-of bought it. After taking the elevator to the skybridge, an Indonesian man, here in KL on a work visa, asked me to be in all his pictures. I smiled sweetly.
I mentioned to another tourist that you can see the towers from anywhere in the town. He replied, "Ya, they are very tall, no?" And I felt stupid about my remark. In fact, they were the tallest in the world until a few years ago. Now, Taipei holds that record. On the official Petronas tour, they do specify that they are still the tallest twin towers in the world. Oh, right.
Later that day, I went to the Menara KL, another sight-seeing tower here that is overshadowed by it's architectually superior rival Petronas. You can actually go up higher in the Menara towers so I took a bunch of pics. Tourists scream while sliding down a zip line at its base.
But later that evening, I had a drink at Luna, a posh roof-top bar with an infinity pool. From the cushy seats of Luna, you can view the Petronas Towers and Menara KL lit up at night--stunning really--and drink a Lychee martini at the same time. As far as high-altitude views go, Luna wins in my book. A couple sent over a second drink to me. What a nice thing to do for a girl traveling alone.
Credit Card Gasps for Breath
Upon exiting the Petronas tour, you wind up in a shopping mall. This mall give the Beverly Center a run for its money. It is southeast Rodeo Drive with a little Melrose in the mix. Everything from Gucci to Zara. From Mango to Marc Jacobs. Even a discount shoe store, a la DSW. I am drawn into stores by some force undiscovered by today's top physicists. I tried on a skirt at Kookai and told the sales woman I loved it but the price was a little too high for me. She offered a lower price. I told her I'll take it for 60%. She agreed. Wait a sec!!! Bargaining at Kookai Paris?! This is awesome. I buy the skirt and decide to try my luck at Prada. Bargaining is frowned upon at Prada. But it worked at Mango. I'm stoked. I walked out with three new pairs of Malay shoes to add to my wall of shoes (this is my art) in my Brooklyn apartment. I had to give myself blinders with my hands to exit this mall. And I'm usually a boutique kind-of girl.
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